20 – Roadtrip to Fez and fun times in Agadir

private marina

As we had been pushed out of Rabat Harbour, for various raisons that were explained before, we sailed and stayed in the marina of Mohammedia, North of Casablanca. In this privately run marina there was even a club house, including pool (which we didn’t feel for using due to temperature)! We felt it was safe to leave the boat and rented a car for a 2 days trip. Jean-Luc had been to Fez years ago with Maxen, but didn’t remember much.  Except for realizing that not much had changed and that you get as lost in this immense medina as any foreigner does since more than 1000 years.

narrow roads in Fes

We parked the car in one of the outside parking lots and got picked up on foot by the hotel boy as the whole old town is inaccessible by vehicle. The Dar (traditional medium sized house with inner courtyard – then transformed into guesthouse/hotel) we stayed in, was great. So great, that after arriving we didn’t feel like leaving the place for an evening stroll. Instead, we decided to have a private Hammam in our wonderful bathroom, before being served a traditional meal by our host which was delicious and extended. With very full tummies we went to bed early in order to be fit for the guided tour around the medina, as otherwise – as mentioned – you get lost.

Fez is known for its pottery and artisanal leather manufacturing, as well as being one of the 4 imperial cities, Unesco World heritage site and one of the oldest and biggest medinas in North Africa. It’s an amazing and fascinating town, with extremely narrow streets that protect from the sun ! No claustrophobia tolerated!

she’s ok but dirty…

Although we had been worried about the tight place we had to squeeze Illika in, we found her back in mint condition after the 2 days. Well…, we’re not talking of the shells and algues on the hull… that we will have to deal with at some moment quite soon. Another task on our to-do-list…

direct line to Agadir

We didn’t consider staying longer in Mohammedia and left the next day in the afternoon, as it’s probably the most expensive berth you can get in Morocco (around € 50.-). Our heading was Essaouira, a fishing and historical fort and harbour that Jean-Luc had in good memory. We finally didn’t stop: it was night, the winds were strong, pushing us southwards at a high speed, the harbour was surrounded with rocks,… So, we sailed all the way to Agadir, 75 miles further. In total, we sailed more than 50 hours from Mohammedia to Agadir. Arriving in the afternoon, we were given a very warm welcome (and help for mooring) by a french family (l’ancre et les voiles), a 6-headed family sailing on a catamaran named Eagle.

Socializing in Agadir

Due to too strong winds and big swell, our expected 2-3 days turned into over 2 weeks in the marina of Agadir. We clearly noticed a temperature improvement to the med and northern Morocco. Although the nights can anyway get quite cold, we spent our days in shorts and t-shirts. The children had a great time together: lots of games, learning to play Poker, talks, shared meals, learning to surf, swimming, even schooling together! With Eagle and other boaters waiting for the right winds to cross to the Canaries, we had enriching talks, exchanges about technical topics and organisation on the boat, brain storming about winds and further plans, shared meals and fun aperitifs that lasted till late at night. And, shame on us: we didn’t do any excursions except the souk and food shopping!

a short crossing to the Canaries

We sailed off from Agadir in a group of 3 sailing boats to cross to the Canaries, for us a first and very positive experience to follow one another on the radar and/or AIS. An AIS is a satellite positioning system for ships: at any time you can see where a ship/yacht registered is). The first day and night were difficult and rolly for everyone! Sea sicknesses on all the boats, not at all the good winds forecasted, more swell than expected… To speed over high waves is better than to be shaken slowly over high waves, that’s for sure! I regretted not having taken the anti-seasick pill before. But I anyway did my night shift, and the next day was much better already!

In the night, after 41 hours of sailing, we dropped the anchor in a bay at the small island of La Graciosa, north of Lanzarote. In the morning, we woke up with the stunning sight of la Montaña Amarilla (very yellow mountain indeed). ¡Holà Canarias!