34 – The windward islands (via Switzerland)

Passing by Sao Nicolao

From Boa Vista and the wonderful experience of seeing turtles nesting (click on the link to see Alexander’s video), we sailed to the Island of Sao Nicolao, one of the 5 “windward islands of Cape Verde” and had a couple of “interesting” stops before arriving at its main harbour Tarrafal. The overnight stop on the south coast was somewhat challenging as it was difficult to find a good spot for anchoring. The coast is steep, so you need to be close to the shore to drop the anchor, but then there was a swell coming from the south pushing us towards the rocks and on top of that there were very strong, unpredictable gusts coming down from the mountains…

After several attempts we found an acceptable spot. We even managed to sleep after letting down lots more chain at midnight. We woke up with 30 knots of wind and Illika pulling at the chain! But Illika’s anchor did its job very well. The start was rough and until the southern cape we had sporty conditions. Then, turning northwards and accompanied by dolphins, the sea was suddenly super calm, the water was clear and we felt like on a holiday. So, we dropped the anchor a few miles south of Tarrafal in front of a beautiful sandy bay, surprised to have it all to ourselves. Snorkelling was good and the mood on the boat got better instantly!

Tarrafal de Sao Nicolao, on the windward islands

Over a week anchored in front of the fishing harbour of Tarrafal allowed us to eat some local food, shop lots of fish and mangos, finish the home-schooling year (YES!) and start to prepare inventory, shopping- and to-do lists for leaving Illika in Mindelo in a couple of weeks. Furthermore, we met some nice local and sailing people. Others were very drunk, stoned or both – there is clearly a problem with their local strong sugar cane alcohol called grog (we literally had to chase one of them off our boat who had climed on bord!). We managed to see part of the island with aluguers (hop-on minibusses everyone uses like public transport) and finally saw areas that might justify the name of the islands “Cabo Verde”. At this anchorage we could also snorkel with a turtle, which seem to be it’s home.

Getting to Mindelo

Just one sailing boat crossed us on the way past the 3 islands between Sao Nicolao and Sao Vincente, belonging, them too, to the windward islands, which are partially nature reserves where anchoring is allowed but you need permission to go on shore. Next, in the south of the Island of Sao Vincente in front of the village of Sao Pedro, we were stuck in a bay where we actually couldn’t go on shore for 3 days because of the dangerous swell. Before going into the marina of Mindelo (quite costy!), we anchored a few days in the bay, amongst other sailing boats and wrecks!!! We started clearing up, packing and cleaning and left Illika well attached and safe on the 18^th July.

In those few days we discovered the extremely lively town Mindelo as there was the Cavala festival going on: the festival ending the mackerel season. We also met Gil (or G’île, he prefers!) – the photos will tell you more about that! What a beautiful personality and not only the boys can learn alot from him!

Home, sweet home

As though we had never been away, our Abri Fleuri (the name given to our house by the first owners), smelt and felt like ever. Thanks to Mum we didn’t have to fight through cobwebs and there was a cold beer waiting for us at 1 o’clock in the morning, as well as Mum, of course. Thank you, Mum😊

The following weeks were packed with get-togethers with family (even family from England!), friends and neighbours as well as organizing doctors’ appointments, the new school books, the renting of the flats, shopping clothes and necessities to bring back to the boat. The 5 weeks flew by in no time. Last cake with Maxen, Elise and the little ones, birthday lunch with Mum and last attempt to lower the weight of our luggage… then it was time to leave. With our 170 kg in 7 luggages we drove to the airport in our rented car at 4 o’clock in the morning.

Boat, sweet boat

Back on Illika nothing had changed either! Except that now not only the hull is full of growth but also our lines 😊.

But wow, two so different worlds! Both somehow “normal” to us… now.

These first days back in Mindelo on the boat were filled with unpacking, reorganizing the spaces and shopping food. Jean-Luc has been busy with technical betterings like installing Starlink, oil change of the gear box, changing the impeller for the cooling water (last minute!), fixing wheels to our dinghy, installing an alarm system and many other bits and pieces. I’ve been planning the school year and organizing all books and folders with the boys. We enjoyed one of the wonderful cocktails at the floating bar in the marina and had the privilege to be in first position for a live concert at the marina until 4 o’clock in the morning! Some people seem to have liked the music…

G’île on his boat called Cholgas, by the way is still here, just beside Illika and we had more enriching talks and days in his company. In the meantime we have moved out to the anchorage in the bay. Still a few things to do and see on the windward islands “Barlovento” before heading for the leeward island group “Sotovento”.